CJade Nomenclature book review

Broken Bangle: The Blunder-Besmirched History of Jade Nomenclature

Book Review by Eric J. Hoffman

by Liu Shang-i, Richard W. Hughes, Zhou Zhengyu, and Kaylan Khourie. Lotus Gemology, Bangkok, 2024. 120 pp, color illus. Hardcover, 11 x 9-1/2 inches. $60.

Jade nomenclature used to be reasonably simple. There was nephrite, the stone used by the Chinese for thousands of years, and there was jadeite, widespread since the late 1700s and used mostly in jewelry. Jadeite’s “cousins” kosmochlor, chloromelanite, and mawsitsit were encountered so infrequently they did not confuse things much. But wider use of the term omphacite in the past few years has definitely complicated the world of jade. In fact, this book begins with a Chinese proverb “The beginning of wisdom is to call things by their right names.”

More than 37 years has passed since the publication of Mark Chou’s little book on jade nomenclature. That book focused on traditional Chinese jade terminology, based mainly on visual appearance, such as “Apple Jade” and “Baby’s Face Jade.” Much has changed in the world of jade since then. New varieties have been identified, omphacite jade is more widely referenced, fei cui jade terminology has been completely updated, instrumentation has improved, and new pseudojades have arisen. It was clearly time for an up-to-date book on jade nomenclature. This is that book.

Editor and jade expert Richard Hughes was joined by three other jade experts to write this book. In their words, “This small book has several purposes. First, to trace the fascinating and at times bizarre nomenclature history of jade and jade-like gem materials from early times to the present. Second, to explain to the world outside of China why the Chinese gemological community is moving to replace the use of jadeite with fei cui, and why we believe the world gemological community should do the same.” The GIA is slowly coming around to this view (nephrite terminology remains unchanged). How the jewelry world responds to these changes remains to be seen.

The book extensively reviews the traditional, historical jade nomenclature, with a detailed section on the occurrence and mineralogy of both yù (nephrite) and fei cui. But that gives way quickly to the book’s central thesis: that we return to the original Chinese word for the gem rock fei cui and stop using the mineral names jadeite, omphacite, and kosmochlor. The authors believe the only situation where those species-specific terms should be used is with single crystals, which are extraordinarily rare in nature.

Beautifully illustrated and a pleasure to read, this book provides a complete history of jade, of its (re)discovery in Europe, jade mineralogy, and even a few words about Central American jade. And because jade is so intimately entwined with Chinese culture, much of the Middle Kingdom’s fascinating history is also woven through its pages. The book carefully distinguishes between nephrite (amphibole jade) and fei cui (pyroxene jade), expounding as well on omphacite and kosmochlor. The mineralogy sections are well illustrated with results from the most up-to-date scholarship and instrumentation. Throughout are subtle and not-so-subtle arguments for replacing the traditional term “jadeite” with modern fei cui terminology. The book ends by addressing eight Questions and Answers about the new fei cui nomenclature that might arise.

The book is enlivened throughout with gorgeous carvings by acknowledged “Jade Carving Masters.” In China this term is not used lightly. Masters must meet rigorous requirements, including at least 15 years of experience and at least one gold medal won in the national carving competition. Along the way are interesting sidebars, such as the difference between a mineral and a rock, why the terms “hard jade” and “soft jade” should be avoided, and surface vs. thin-section testing.

Jewelry aficionados may wish to focus on the history and mineralogy of jade and less on the fei cui-jadeite debate. Jewelry appraisers will find the updated terminology important. Either way, this book is a valuable contribution not only for the gemologist but for all who deal with jade jewelry.

Originally published in ASJRA Newsletter, August 2024.